From devastation to peace
Hiroshima was completely destroyed in the first ever atomic bomb attack in 1945. Out of the rubble and ashes, a modern, thriving city was reborn. Even more remarkably, an entire movement sprung up here against nuclear weapons and against war in general. There are ceremonies and conferences held in Hiroshima all the time for these causes.
Peace Park, in the middle of the city, serves both as a reminder and as a testament to this desire for peace. Ground Zero of the atomic bomb attack, it contains a mix of memorials and monuments, as well as the famous Atomic Bomb Dome, and the very moving Peace Museum. Upon arrival in Hiroshima just after lunch, I spent the entire afternoon at Peace Park.
Atomic Bomb Dome
This dome was one of the structures closest to the site of the actual blast. Remarkably, it survived nearly intact – at least, compared to everything else, which was completely destroyed. Today, it has been preserved as a reminder of the effects of atomic bombing. When I was there, there was a big bird sitting in one of the bombed-out windows, which made for a very stirring picture.
The Children’s Memorial
Of the sixty or so memorials in the park, this is one of the most moving. Made up almost entirely of origami paper cranes – a symbol of peace – the memorial is constantly surrounded by Japanese school groups, most of whom seem to come to Hiroshima for ceremonies and learning. I saw one group singing some prayers in front of this memorial, and it was very moving; I couldn’t understand the words, but the intent was clear.
Peace Museum
A sobering but must-see museum is the Peace Museum, in Peace Park, which gives the history of Hiroshima before the bombing, details on the actual attack and its effects, the post-war rebuilding and recovery efforts, and details on the anti-nuclear and peace movements that have emerged in Hiroshima and around the world.
I spent almost three full hours in the museum. It was really fascinating, and not only because it was from the Japanese perspective, which is one we don’t really get in all of our education about World War II. Actually, it was actually fairly balanced in terms of taking “sides”; not pro-Japanese or anti-American, really, and not glossing over the sins committed by Japan in this or other wars. Its main stance was anti-war and pro-peace.
I could go on for pages describing all of the things that were on display, but suffice to say, it was an amazing display, and very thought-provoking.
More than just a pancake
For dinner, I got to try okonomiyaki, which is a local specialty of Hiroshima. Basically, it can be described as a giant pancake or omelette, though neither term does it justice. It’s got egg and batter, filled with cabbage, vegetables, cheese, and all sorts of optional toppings, and a special sauce. The cooks prepare it on a giant griddle right in front of you while you watch, and they serve it to you on the griddle with chopsticks and a serving knife. It doesn’t sound that tasty from the description, but believe me, it’s absolutely delicious.
Up next: Miyajima Island.