The Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, but someone forgot to tell the people of Karakol. This very Russian city east of Lake Issyk-Kul is our stop for the night. Most of the people here appear to be Russians, not Kyrgyz,…
Community-based tourism
Greetings from Kochkor, Kyrgyzstan! As you can see, I have internet access again, even at this homestay in a tiny village in the Kyrgyz mountains. I suppose there’s no such thing as “off the grid” anymore. In addition, it’s exciting…
Welcome to Kyrgyzstan
I’m in Kyrgyzstan! Even just saying that makes me grin like a fool. I absolutely love it here and I’ve only been here for a day. I have so much to update, I hardly know where to start. Crossing the…
China’s western limit
The city so great, they named it twice Hi from Kashgar, or if you prefer, from Kashi. This city, known as Kashgar in the local Uyghur language or as Kashi in Chinese, is the westernmost point in China, near the…
Transit day
Today was a travel day, pretty much. We started off with another lazy lie-in until check-out at noon, which was much appreciated by all the people on our tour battling this cold. The day was, shockingly, chilly and rainy. Just…
Lowest point in China
Welcome to Xinjiang Province Hi from Turpan! This ancient Silk Road city of just over half a million people is notable for being the lowest point in China, at 192m below sea level. That makes it the second-lowest place on…
Sand, sand and more sand
Hello again from Dunhuang, where the desert surrounds us on all sides. Ancient Silk Road travellers would form caravans to head across the desert by camel. The hundreds of miles of hot, hostile territory would be laden with dangers —…
Caves and Buddhist art
Hi from Dunhuang! I’ve arrived in Gansu province, my third province of China so far. We got here this morning after a 23-hour train journey from Xi’an. I did manage a bit more sleep on the train this time, so…
Tales from a train
As I write this, I’m on a 23-hour long sleeper train from Xi’an to Dunhuang, in Gansu province. We’re speeding west along the ancient Silk Routes, watching trees and people and towns and farms go by, playing endless card games,…
Around Xi’an
Hi again from Xi’an! Another hot and smoggy day — is there any other kind here? — spent exploring the city and its sights. Cycling tour of the city walls First stop after breakfast, we headed up to the old…